Buying Art in the Rosarito Area of Baja

There are so many fine artists and galleries in our little area of Baja. I am talking about Rosarito as I am not a frequent traveler to Tijuana or Ensenada. The cost of an original oil painting, unframed is way less than you would expect to pay many other places. Many of the fine pieces in my home cost around two hundred and fifty dollars, framed. This does not mean the quality is not of the best. Whenever you get a place with a nice climate, art buyers, and a comparatively inexpensive way of living, you get a lot of very good artists. Some of the artists here can command upwards of six thousand dollars for a painting.

One of my favorite galleries is Polo Valencia’s, which is across from the Baja Film studios just south of Rosarito. He has two buildings stuffed full of so many fine paintings it almost takes your breath away. He is charming and will do his best to explain to you about your artist in an informative rather than hard selling manner. He has been known to discount if someone buys more than one painting which is great for that person just decorating a new home or condo. The galleries have been there for almost 20 years, He is a fine painter himself who likes to do fruit you can almost pick off the canvas. He commands in the thousands for some of his oils which are done in a three dimensional style and are quite large, about three by four feet and framed usually in white. There is a frame shop right in between the two galleries.

Polo learned how to paint from Paco Garcia who has a gallery in front of the Rosarito Beach Hotel right on the main boulevard. Paco has done quite a range of subjects over the years and is just as charming as Polo. He also has done a lot of murals over the years. If you go into our historic Rosarito Beach Hotel they can point out some of his mural work for you. He also has a frame shop which I find to be quite reasonable, about twenty dollars for a matted and framed piece of about twelve by twelve inches.

A few doors away from Paco’s gallery is David Silva’s. David is well known for his depictions of Don Quixote with eyes that follow you around the room. He also does tango dancers in a large format perfect for that very large empty wall you might have, using a background of what looks like newsprint quite often. His women are lifelike and appear to move on the canvas. Part of his gallery is given over to MexiFolkArts. Benito Del Aguila owns a business that he has expanded into online selling with eBay. His knowledge of museum quality folk art is extensive. His family helps out by traveling Mexico to find some of the best artists for him to purchase his exquisite pieces from, and sells for excellent prices. I have a pottery piece a well known mainland Mexican artist sold off from his private collection to defray medical costs that cost me only forty dollars. Benito assured me with a straight face that I did not have to pay the shipping cost.

UGI’s Gallery is in between Rosarito and Popotla on the right hand side of the street going south. Owned by two very talented artists, Alvaro and Janet. He specialized in large flowers perfect for adorning a wall in a contemporary home. Janet is a master of light and uses it to great advantage in her paintings. She also does wonderful things with texture to make a painting come alive.

ArtFest is coming up Memorial Day weekend in Rosarito. It is this weekend every year.

So if you are looking to decorate a wall, an office, or a home, this is a great place to come for masterful art that will not cost you a fortune.

How To Write A Song

Did you ever wish that it was your song playing on the radio? It could be. It is not that hard once you know the formula. With a little creativity, a little knowledge, a little luck and a good formula to follow, your song could be one of the next biggest hits.

Songwriting comes easy for some, and is very difficult for others. I have actually written songs in my sleep, and immediately upon awaking, written it as quickly as I could get the words on down on paper.

What I want to discuss here is popular songwriting, like the songs you hear on the radio. A good pop song, whether rock, country, middle of the road, is composed of two things: a catchy tune and some good lyrics.

There is a formula that most great songwriters use to write great songs. It regards the structure used to write a song. Granted, it is music and it is art, so the rules are not hard and fast. But if you want to increase your chances of getting your song on the radio, it is a good starting point.

Here is the formula. Verse, chorus, verse, chorus, bridge, chorus.

Write that down on paper leaving plenty of space between each word and this will be your script.

Verse

The verse is the part of the song that tells the story, the part that leads to the chorus. Each verse is usually different, telling a different part of, or adding to, the story. It usually explains how you got to the things you are singing about in the chorus.

Chorus.

The chorus is the part of the song that is repeated after each verse. The lyrics are usually the same each time the chorus comes around. The verse usually leads to the chorus, and the chorus is usually the pay off for listening to the verse. Does that make sense?

Here is a lame example (you did not think I would give you my best work, did you?):

(verse)

My dog is sick, he’s got a tick

He’s my best friend, don’t let it end

(chorus)

Oh, woe is me, can’t you see

Woe is me, will I ever be free

(verse)

My car broke down, just out of town

It got towed in, but it’s broke again

(chorus)

Oh, woe is me, can’t you see

Woe is me, will I ever be free

Now, if you would kindly stop laughing at my lame song for a minute, I want you to think about whether or not you understand my point. Songwriting is story telling. The verse tells the problems, the chorus expresses the results or the emotions.

All right, now that you have that mastered, let’s tackle the bridge. Ah, yeah, there is more to the song than the pain and the release. We need the diversion. That is what the bridge is; it is the diversion from the verse and the chorus.

The bridge may have a slightly different melody to it, or it could even have a different rhythm or a different tempo (Elvis’ “Suspicious Minds” did a great job on this technique).

Let’s go back to the lame song and add a bridge:

(verse)

My dog is sick, he’s got a tick

He’s my best friend, don’t let it end

(chorus)

Oh, woe is me, can’t you see

Woe is me, will I ever be free

(verse)

My car broke down, just out of town

It got towed in, but it’s broke again

(chorus)

Oh, woe is me, can’t you see

Woe is me, will I ever be free

(bridge)

Tomorrow is a better day, I’ve got a new truck on the way

My dog just had a flea it seems, so once again I’ll live my dreams

(chorus)

Oh, woe was me, can’t you see

Woe was me, but now I’m free

The bridge offers a solution to the problems I was having. You don’t want to leave your listener on the edge of suicide, you want to give them hope.

Notice, I also changed up the wording of the chorus. This was done to reflect my new found joy.

One more thing on formula. It can be anyway you want, but most verses and chorus come in lines of 4. So, instead of this:

(verse)

Oh, woe is me, can’t you see

Woe is me, will I ever be free

(verse)

My car broke down, just out of town

It got towed in, but it’s broke again

it would be:

Oh, woe is me, can’t you see

Woe is me, will I ever be free

My car broke down, just out of town

It got towed in, but it’s broke again

The same goes for the chorus. Again, if you are creative, do it however you want. But for a new songwriter, this gives you some guidelines to scratch out and start carving out your new creation.

One more thing, do not make the notes to the melody so high that your fans cannot sing along. We are certainly all not Stevie Wonder.

Interior Wall Painting Techniques – Project Prep to How to and Do it Yourself

PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:

Ladder

Plastic water bucket

Gloves

Rags

TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)

liquid soap

Screwdriver

Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets

Blue painter’s tape (with and without paper attached)

Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting

Spackling compound

5-in-1 tool or wide blade

Latex caulk

220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer

Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen

Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket

Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8″ roller cover

2″ – 3″ Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?

Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term “latex” includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child’s room, safety is critical.”

Here is Final advice on paint quality.

When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, “don’t waste your time” or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label–this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room?

The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it’s always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups.

Once you’ve properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don’t skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding

whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.

CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter’s tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn’t stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don’t peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.

NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2″ wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4″ away from the cut in area. Working in a 3′ x 3′ area, roll a “W” onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the “W” technique 3-4″ away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What’s in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it’s the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it’s not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn’t the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss.

Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids’ rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly “shiny,” but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight “glow”. Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI – GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH – GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn’t typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

Best Judaica Store in Los Angeles CA 5-Star Reviews (323) 930-1081



http://themitzvahstore.org/
(323) 930-1081

I was in the store looking for a few books and they had exactly what I was looking for and the customer service was good. I will definitely be telling people to shop here for their needs.

Here at The Mitzvah Store in Los Angeles, we are certified Sofer STaM with 30 years of experience on premises. Our Hebrew bookstore has been serving all Jewish communities since 1985 for all your Judaica needs including gifts. If you have any questions, give us a call at (323) 930-1081 or stop in and ask our friendly staff.

For More Information Contact Us at:

The Mitzvah Store
(323) 930-1081
7227 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90036

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Wall Fan Or Ceiling Fan – Which Option Should You Prefer?

Have you ever wondered why people recommend the installation of the fan on the ceiling and not on the walls? Well, if you visit any auditorium or any big hall, you will discover fans being fitted to the walls as well. However, this is done only when the ceiling is too high or is designed in such a manner that installation of ceiling fan is not feasible.

If the roof is curved or if it is slanted, installing the right ceiling fan in the right manner without any difficulty can be a very difficult task. To avoid this complication, fans are mounted on the wall and are used to circulate air in the room. This simple and efficient solution is cost effective without any compromise in performance.

Well, why don’t you adopt the same approach for your house? It is important to have a clearance of at least two to three feet to ensure that you do not come in contact with the fan even by mistake. In such a scenario, you will need a wall that is at least 10 feet tall.

Further, you should have additional space over and above the spot where the wall fan is mounted. This means that you are talking of at least 15-20 feet of space before the ceiling begins. Do you know anybody who lives in such a big house? Further, do you know anybody who makes such inefficient use of the space?

Is it not advisable to create a false ceiling and use the space above for different purposes? In fact, it is possible to carry out masonry work and permanently install a wall that will help the individual increase the overall floor space.

Considering all these options, there is no doubt that the fan is a very convenient option. Safety apart, it also improves the aesthetics of your room. If you have a relatively big room, a normal sized ceiling fan will be more than sufficient to circulate air all over the room.

If you go in for a wall fan option, you will have to spend a lot of money by purchasing numerous fans. In such a scenario, the only available alternative is to go in for multiple table fans or a single powerful ceiling fan.

Hence, do not conclude that the fan is a boring accessory. There are numerous options but it is the best one around and that is the reason why it is very popular.